All Hot Tubs

Choosing the right hot tub depends on your budget, available power, and desired performance:

• Portable Spas (Inflatable/M-Spa type): These are the most accessible entry point. They are lightweight, can be set up in 15 minutes, and plug into a standard indoor or outdoor socket. Ideal for renters or seasonal use.
• 13-Amp Plug & Play: These are hard-shell, permanent acrylic tubs that offer the luxury of a "real" spa but only require a standard 13-amp outdoor waterproof socket. They are cost-effective to install but typically only run the heater or the jets at full power—not both simultaneously.
• 32-Amp Hard-wired: These are the pinnacle of hydrotherapy. They require a dedicated electrical line installed by an electrician but allow multiple pumps and high-power heaters to run at the same time for a "no-compromise" experience.
  
  

• For Portable & 13-Amp models: No complex wiring is needed. You simply require a dedicated, RCD-protected outdoor socket. You should never use an extension lead, as the continuous draw of the heater can cause standard cables to overheat.
• For 32-Amp models: Yes. Under UK Building Regulations (Part P), these must be hard-wired from your consumer unit using Steel Wire Armoured (SWA) cable to a waterproof rotary isolator switch located near the tub.

Running costs vary based on the tub's insulation and local electricity rates.

• Energy Efficiency: Hard-shell tubs with full-foam insulation are significantly cheaper to run long-term than inflatable models because they retain heat better.
• Daily Costs: At 2026 rates, a well-insulated hard-shell tub typically costs between £1.20 and £2.50 per day to stay at 38°C, whereas an uninsulated portable tub can cost more during colder months.

• Hard-shell Tubs (13A & 32A): Absolutely. These are built for the British winter. Most feature "antifreeze" technology that automatically pulses the pumps if the water temperature drops too low, protecting the internal pipework.
• Portable Spas: While many modern portable tubs are "all-weather," we recommend using an additional thermal jacket or inflatable bladder in winter to reduce heat loss and protect the motor unit from extreme frost.

Hygiene is managed through a combination of filtration and sanitisation:

1. Filtration: All our tubs feature cartridge filters that trap physical debris. These should be rinsed weekly and replaced every few months.
2. Sanitisation: You must use a sanitiser—usually Chlorine or Bromine—to kill bacteria. Many of our premium models also include Ozone or UV-C systems, which naturally neutralise organic matter, allowing you to use fewer chemicals.
3. Water Changes: We recommend a full "drain and refill" every 3 to 4 months to keep the water fresh.

A hot tub filled with water and people is incredibly heavy (often weighing 1.5 to 2 tonnes). You require a level, solid foundation.

• Suitable Surfaces: Concrete pads, reinforced timber decking, or specific heavy-duty "hot tub plastic grids" are ideal.
• Avoid: Never place a hot tub on bare grass or sand, as the ground will shift over time, potentially warping the tub’s frame or cracking the acrylic shell.

• Chlorine: The most common and cost-effective choice. It works quickly but can have a stronger "chemical" smell and may irritate sensitive skin.
• Bromine: Stays effective at higher temperatures for longer and is much gentler on the skin and eyes. It is slightly more expensive but is often preferred for "luxury" setups.