All Sauna Accessories

Not all control panels are universal. While many "external" digital controls are compatible with a wide range of heaters, you must check two critical factors:

• Power Rating: Ensure the control unit is rated for the kilowatt (kW) output of your heater. For heaters over 9kW, you will almost certainly need a separate "contactor box" (relay unit) to handle the power load safely.
• Sensor Type: Most modern digital panels come with their own temperature sensors. You cannot usually mix a sensor from one brand with a panel from another, so it is best to buy them as a matched kit.

Please Note: It is the customer's responsibility to consult a qualified electrician to assess and install the suitable electrical requirements to the heater's specification.

A flue kit is essential for safely venting smoke through your sauna roof. To comply with UK building and safety regulations, a standard kit typically includes:

• Twin-Wall Insulated Pipe: Stainless steel pipe with insulation to prevent the outside from getting too hot and scorching your timber roof.
• Single-Wall Pipe: The initial pipe that connects directly to the stove (often uninsulated to radiate more heat inside the room).
• Flashings & Storm Collars: Flexible rubber or metal seals to waterproof the hole in your roof.
• Rain Cap (Cowl): To stop rain and birds entering the chimney.

You cannot use regular garden rocks or river stones in a sauna.

• The Right Stone: You require Split-Face Olivine Diabase or Vulcanite stones. These are dense, heat-resistant, and have a rough surface area that "grabs" the water to create better steam (löyly). Ordinary rocks can explode under heat or release harmful minerals.
• Replacement: Over time, stones crack and crumble, blocking airflow and potentially damaging your heater elements. We recommend rearranging them annually and replacing them fully every 1 to 2 years for average home use.

 Placement is key for an accurate reading.

• Do not place the thermometer directly above the heater, as it will give a falsely high reading.
• Best Position: Mount it on a side wall, approximately 150mm from the ceiling and away from the door or ventilation vents. This gives you the true "bathing temperature" at head height.

 While often used interchangeably, the material matters for longevity.

• Wooden Buckets: Traditional and aesthetically pleasing, but they must be kept with some water in them to prevent the wood from drying out and shrinking (which causes leaks). Most modern wooden buckets have a plastic liner to solve this.
• Metal/Aluminium Pails: These are durable, easy to clean, and modern looking. However, be careful—they can get very hot to the touch if left on the top bench!

• Electric Heaters: Usually not required if the heater is wall-mounted, though a non-slip floor mat is recommended for safety.
• Wood-Burning Stoves: Yes. You absolutely require a non-combustible hearth (often made of glass, steel, or stone) to protect the timber floor from radiant heat and stray embers. This typically needs to extend at least 300mm in front of the stove door.

A sauna without ventilation will feel "stuffy" and may leave you feeling lethargic rather than refreshed. A basic kit usually includes an adjustable wooden disc valve (exhaust) and a grille (intake).

• Function: This ensures fresh oxygen enters the room near the heater and stale, humid air is pushed out, keeping the air quality high and preventing mould growth when the sauna is not in use.